Malta

This journey begins in the heart of San Francisco at the landmark Ellis Street restaurant John’s Grill where a foot-tall shiny bird sculpture is perched stoic inside a glass cage. It is a replica of the statuette from the movie ‘Maltese Falcon’ wherein the debonair Humphrey Bogart starred as the famed sleuth Sam Spade.

Dashiell Hammett, author of the book “The Maltese Falcon”, was a frequent customer at John’s Grill. In the book, the private eye hunts for the lost falcon-shaped artifact forged in gold and encrusted in jewels created by the Knights of Malta in the 16^th century as a gift to the King of Spain. It had been painted black to conceal its value. Spade stopped at the restaurant to order a plate of “chops, baked potato, and sliced tomatoes” in a brief respite from crime-solving.

The restaurant owner placed a $150,000 bid at an auction in New York to purchase one of two original Maltese Falcon statuettes made for the film. The owner lost to a higher bid but was later gifted with an autographed replica by the last surviving actor of the movie. The autographed replica, however, was subsequently stolen from its locked display case. Where is Sam Spade when you need him?

Malta is the fifth smallest country in Europe. It is a three island archipelago located in the center of the Mediterranean Sea. Known for historic sites, it has numerous megalithic temples and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, a subterranean complex of halls and burial chambers dating to circa 4000 B.C.

Through the centuries, the islands’ strategic naval position made it an attractive prey to foreign invaders with a succession of powers having occupied and ruled the country. Today’s culture and tradition is a fusion of the many foreign influences from ancient times.

Malta was part of Sicily until the 16th century when, under the growing threat of aggression from the Ottoman Empire, the King of Spain, in agreement with Pope Clement VII, bequeathed Malta to the Grand Master of the Order of St. John in Jerusalem, head of a medieval Catholic military order called Knights. In exchange, allegiance and a yearly tribute of one Malta falcon was given to the King’s representative on All Soul’s Day.

Dubbed the Knights of Malta with the mission to defend the Holy Land and provide care for the injured, the Knights transformed Malta into a thriving stronghold building several forts and estates that are today’s popular sightseeing attractions. The Knights successfully defended Malta against Muslim assault.

Valletta, the capital, is a maze of stairs, bridges, gates and pathways polished by the meandering footsteps of numerous wanderers. This mystic stone fortress set on the Grand Harbor overlooking the Mediterranean Sea sprawls like a jewel protected by an enclave of splashing turquoise. It is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and holds the most fascinating military stories.

Malta is the most bombed place on the planet. One of every ten bombs dropped during WW2 fell on Malta. A tour of the War Headquarters Malta in Valletta reveals a vast labyrinth of tunnels built by the British. It lies beneath the upper Barraka Gardens where shots are fired from saluting batteries every day at 4 p.m.

The Lacaris War Room served as the Allied Headquarters for General Eisenhower and others for the Invasion of Sicily in 1943. It was a place so secret until recently when it was opened to the public in 2016.

Due to this secrecy, Hitler failed to recognize its significance and had no interest in a land invasion of Malta, not realizing its military importance in creating close cooperation between all fighting services which influenced current military doctrine.

After the war, the War HQ served strategic roles as NATO HQ for tracking Soviet submarines in the Mediterranean, as operation HQ for the invasion of Egypt as a result of the Suez Canal and went into full mobilization during the Cuban Missile Crisis.

Baroque style buildings and gardens refreshed by the gentle breeze add to the enigma as you navigate Valletta’s winding passages where you will invariably stumble into one of the 28 ornate churches in the city.

St. Paul the Apostle, who was shipwrecked in Malta, is the patron saint of the country. We celebrated Easter mass at the Church of St. Paul’s Shipwreck, one of Valletta’s oldest churches where you can view the relic of the right wrist bone of St. Paul as well as part of the column from San Paolo alle Tre Fontane, on which the saint was beheaded in Rome.

When in Malta, be amazed by the power of rushing water that has cut through a rock mountain to form the Inland Sea, explore its many ancient structures, soak in the calm of the Blue Lagoon, hop through the many bars and restaurants like the Bridge Bar located midway on a bridge just in case you need to refresh while crossing from one end to another and visit Popeye’s village for some giggles.